battery cut-of switch

I picked up two battery cut-off switches at Harbor Freight this weekend figuring on installing one for the negative and positive leads off the battery.

But... where to put them, where to put them...

Well, I did a rear tube shock conversion which I was, and still am, happy with and looking at the rear cockpit shelf that the old plugged holes used to fill the shocks with hydraulic fluid were just sitting there unused. Drilled two holes, bolted the switch in place and viola'...premade mounting hole for the battery cut-off switch.

I was reinstalling my turn signal and wiper arm assemblies onto the steering column and noticed a wire on the underside of the ignition switch which seemed very loose.

I barely touched it and it came off. The plastic clip the wire plugged into on the column also broke in half...brittle with age I assume since it seems more like bakolite than plastic

The wire is purple/pink and plugs into a little plastic clip that in turn snaps into place on the underside of the ignition switch body

In the picture below the little clip that snaps into place on the underside of the ignition body is being held in the vice grips (as the JB Weld sets) The P/K wire is to the left with the clip on it and the little recepticle the clip snap into is the recess with the little nipple on it just above and to the right of the vice grip.

The wiring diagram shows that the P/K wire goes to the LH door switch then to the buzzer and on into the seatbelt module (which I assume was bypassed by the DPO since there is no buzzer or seatblet lockout and/or warning function) I don't see this clip in any catalogs, the Haynes manual.

A member on the MGE says it is just for the door buzzer so I assume I can seal off the end and not worry about it. I'm going to try to repair/replace it and hook it up anyway.